Italian Riviera
by Morgan
Portofino is a small fishing village on the Italian riveria, that today is famously known for being a getaway for celebrities and Europe’s elite. Everyone from the Gucci, Pirelli, and Ferragamo families have private estates in the area. As a result, Portofino itself is difficult to stay in, so we recommend staying in Santa Margherita Ligure or Rapallo. Both are much easier to get to, are chic small cities (Rapallo bigger than Santa Margherita, but each with individual charm), and paint a fuller picture of the true Italian Riviera.
*While many people confuse Portofino with Positano, Portofino is located in the westernmost part of central Italy, while Positano is a part of the Amalfi Coast.
What you can’t miss…
It didn’t take me more than three hours into being in the Italian Riviera to make it one of my favorite places in Italy that we have been. Similar to the vibe of Lake Como, the towns in Liguria are filled with chic northern Italian families who are on holiday enjoying the finer things in life. Not to generalize, but we did a lot of people watching here.
You don’t need more than 2-3 days here, but plan it wisely, and make reservations when possible! Alternatively, if you are staying in Cinque Terre, you can do a day trip by train, boat, or car to see an abbreviated version of Portofino and the surrounding towns of Liguria.
A boat day along the coast, specifically with Captain Gabriele (via Mussini Giorgio Portofino)! If you’re not staying in Portofino proper (it is very small), he’ll take you into Portofino to explore and grab drinks, to swimming spots along the coast, to the best lunch in a local tiny town, and get you back in time for dinner. Our favorite day in the Italian Riviera was spent with him.
The Belmond Splendido is the hotel of Portofino. If you are in Portofino only for an afternoon or evening, you can grab drinks at the Belmond Splendido Mare, a sister hotel that is directly in the port while people watching.
Taking the train here is easy, but we recommend booking accommodations within proximity to one of the towns, or renting a car. Otherwise, expect very expensive taxis.
Where to stay…
We booked our trip to the Italian Riviera very last minute and ended up staying in this Airbnb, perfectly in between Santa Margherita and Rapallo. We spent most of our time in Santa Margherita and exploring the coast by boat, but had we stayed longer, the Airbnb had a cute private beach and was within walking distance to both towns.
As mentioned above, the Belmond Splendido is the créme de la créme of hotels in this area. We have long adored Belmond properties for their location and hospitality, and we’re certain that you wouldn’t experience anything less than that at Splendido.
Grand Hotel Miramar in Santa Margherita is by far the best hotel in Santa Margherita.
We didn’t spend time in Rapallo other than taking the train out, but it is another great option. Unless you are planning on staying at one of the finer hotels, we recommend looking at Airbnb options in the area.
What to pack…
Coastal chic
Bathing suit
SPF
Film camera